Still fussing with it, but it is a dress at this point.

The skirt has been on for a few days now, so I technically have a dress, and I've been trying it on and fussing with fit and the way the train drapes. Today's project is to take off about two inches from the top of the shoulder strap. While it technically fits if I stand very, very straight, I think trimming them will be more comfortable in the long run. The straps are individually finished and then whip stitched together, so it shouldn't be a big deal to make the adjustment.

I'm also considering another row of trim on the bodice both for looks and to further anchor the lacing strips.

The biggest issue is the drape of the train. I don't know if the petticoat is not full enough or the hem isn't stiff enough, or what the issue is, but the train just seems a little blah. The skirt is basically the shaped layout of the Eleonora Pisa dress (Thanks once again to Katerina de Brescia for all her fabulous online information at Purple Files so I didn't have to take sketches from Moda di Firenze and figure it out myself.)  I knew I wanted more fullness, so my panels are larger to allow for deep pleats. There is about 7 yards of 60 wide fabric in the skirt.  Which is why I can't figure out why it feels so skimpy.  I'm going to add a bit more stiffening to the hem and perhaps try a farthingale/bumroll.  I know what you're thinking, "Italians didn't use them." Not true actually.  Vecellio mentions them in use in 1590. While they weren't in use earlier, in this late style I could utilize one.  I feel like I'm already wearing tons of individual pieces though and already plan to add partlet, ruff, and shoulder ruffs, so I'm hoping a little more stiffening will get me what I'm hoping for.

About half way through with applique

Doesn't look like much, but this was my free time today. I machine tacked the linen interlining to the upper fabric and stabilized the blue with a fine line of glue so it wouldn't continue fraying. Once complete, the edge will be bound with fur and then covered in ribbon so I'm not worried about it eventually, just while stitching. I also needed an edge to stretch since the border is so close to the edge of the fashion fabric, so I cut the linen extra large. I don't need a very tight fabric for applique so I went for speed and put it in one of my  Q-snap frames rather than stretching it on a better frame. I should finish the stitching tomorrow or Wednesday.

I'm using 1000 denier Kanagawa silk in turquoise and a glover's needle to quilt the leather. It is a heavy 3 ply filament silk with a great deal of shine. I'm just doing a basic running/stab stitch but I want there to be significant contrast between it and the leather and no question that "I meant to do that."

I'm considering changing the buttons and either doing them in the turquoise silk or possibly leather covered ones. I need to see how it really looks with the fur and ribbon in place. While I'd like it to coordinate with the eventual loose gown I want it to look good on its own.

In other news, I never showed off the pictures of the bag I made for Baroness Jennet. It is a version of the silver dragonfly and thistles of her heraldry. I talked about it here and it is one of my 50 favors and tokens for A and S 50. So here's the picture of it before I forget again.

Just a little detour

I had way too much fun this weekend at Coronation. Mostly thanks to my friends Fia, Malatesta, and CiCi, but I have to be honest and say a lot of it was I got to wear my dress and brag. The best part? I didn't even have to do my own bragging. Baroness Casamira, my friend and kingdom A&S minister (and thus my boss as a local MoAS), was sweet and pulled me up before court and had me talk about my dress. Their (outgoing) Majesties Morgan and Esabell called me up in their final court before the official business. (Now) Duchess Esabell said some very touching things about bringing prestige and honor to the kingdom. I truly hope that I have. Being a part of the SCA Kingdom of Artemisia is such a gift to me. I am so glad to be a part of it. Queen Claire was also kind enough to say some very complimentary things while we were watching the tournaments and I got to giggle when His Majesty Ronan ended up borrowing my parasol to get a little shade while watching the tournament for King's Champion. Vikings and fringe don't go together very well. All in all the dress was a total success.

And thus we arrive at the detour. I'm going to Harvest War in 2 weeks to celebrate my birthday (and Fia, and Cici, and Owen's and Eli's-- a good portion of my friends were all born within 3 weeks of each other. Lots and lots of Virgos.) I want something pretty to wear. I've got the Persian camp gear I just made for Baron's War for most of the time, but I'd really like one nice dress. It's my birthday, a present to myself is in order. So, I've decided to do a quick version of the Lucrezia dress from this portrait by Lorenzo Lotto.  I absolutely adore patchwork and it was one I considered doing for the IRCC.  There's a totally fabulous hat as well.  On top of that, I have a cotton brocade in a deep salmon rust and a clear wedgewood sort of blue in my stash that I think will give me the contrast I need while not being green and red.  I'm doing my Russian in green and red and just did the red velvet gown so another color combo seems in order.  Blue and orange are actually my favorite colors.  I've got 5 yards of each so that should be plenty.  There's no trim so I won't have to worry about that.  No way am I crazy enough to fur line it like the picture.  Even in mid-September it would be too hot.  I've already got canvas and wool felt for interlining though as well as a couple of options for lining, so this might actually be a "free" dress with nothing new to have to purchase.  That would make my husband happy,

I'm a little nervous about putting the Russian off further since I'm already behind, but I really want to make this so I spent a good portion of the evening drafting.  My measurements have changed recently with a little bit of exercise and the weaning of my twins so I started by making myself a new conic block according to Missa's instructions at Sempstress (which are similar to how I learned in my costuming classes in college, but that's been awhile so its nice to have step by step instructions to look at.)  I figured I'd need that regardless.  Not that I really need anything that fitted for making Rus clothes, but it was a reasonable justification and having updated measurements is a good idea regardless.  I'm planning to work on the applique on the povoinik tomorrow.  If I finish, which should be pretty easy to do, I can draft a front lacing bodice from the block.  My husband is home with the holiday and having an extra set of hands for fitting will be helpful.  Wish me luck!

Pictures

I wasn't sure if I was supposed to post these or not, but it looks like several of the other competitors have posted their final pictures. First one is of almost everything. Coat, dress, partlet, chopines, flag fan, all the jewelry, and the zibellino.

Flashing the chopines, the drawers, and my stockings

Dress with the flag fan

Back of the dress. You can see my zibi's feet. She's got rice pearls for toenails and it makes me laugh every time I see them.

Veil and muff. I'm actually surprised at how much of my face you can see.

The vizard protecting my complexion.

Being silly with the nosegay. The scent of the oregano is actually really very nice. I can totally see it as a useful item to have in a room full of sweaty bodies and unaired clothing.

SHOES! I'm unreasonably proud of these. I just love how they turned out.

Side view. Check out just how poofy those over sleeves are.

Apron and the rosary. I'm not sure how correct it would be, but I took off the partlet because the apron and it was just too much white for the light we were dealing with.

hairpins and jewelry. One of my stones in the necklace cracked on the way to pictures. I replaced it this morning. I suppose something had to go wrong.

Pocket and petticoat. The light was being bad since it was late in the evening and I couldn't get very good contrast of the chemise to show off the lace. Its SO pretty in person and so lame in pictures.

I've got a few dozen more pictures, but those are the highlights I think.

Watched the timer count down

I am such a goober.  I actually sat there for the last half hour of the contest and watched the counter count down to zero. Just one more day for people to get their write ups and photos submitted.


The final total for me is:

4 required layers-- camisia, petticoat, dress, and partlet

2 dozen accessories-- balzo, necklace, earrings, girdle, hairpins, rosary, pocket, apron, shoes, chopines, stockings, drawers, zibellino, garters, veil, zimmara, muff, parasol, flag fan, feather fan, mask, handkerchief, nosegay, and purse.

Peek a boo

My boys are helping me model the last couple of things.  My 4 year old is under the parasol.  I had thought about making one back in June and found a really great tutorial from Threads Magazine on recovering an umbrella and read up a little on parasol history.  Then I decided that I was probably too chicken to try doing one and just planned to purchase one.  Then I got nervous.  I freely admit that competition has seized me this last week or so and I've started to think about maybe winning this competition by sheer volume of stuff.  With other people working clear up to the deadline and making more and more items I couldn't just sit here today like I'd planned.  The knot in my stomach wouldn't let me.  So, I just started cutting and it was really easy.  Then I spent a few hours sewing on fringe.  I don't know if its apparent, but there are two layers of chainette fringe whipstitched to the edge and then a round of gold trim attached on top of that.  I added a couple of gold rings to the top just for fun.  I'm sort of thinking about adding a large pearl as a finial and then adding a few more along the ribs and in the center of the gold trim on each panel.  That's going to wait though.  It's dinner time and I really am done for sure.  Feeding the kids and sitting around this evening without a project and then going to bed.

Colin is going to help me show off the last thing.  Its another thing that needs more trim after the competition is over.  I intended to wear it open anyway, but I do want to eventually do the buttons and braid all the way down the front.  I concentrated on the shoulder treatment and I'm very pleased with it.  It doesn't look like much on my chair, but really looked great over the dress when I took pictures yesterday.

Just a couple more days and we'll know how this turns out and I'll post all the pictures.

In the mean time, I have a rug to make for a prize for a rapier tournament in a couple of weeks and need to start working on my Russian ensemble for the Artemisian Costuming Challenge.  It's been going on for a bit and I've been doing this.  By the time I get around to starting on it (hopefully Monday) I'll only have 4 months to do another complete outfit.  I guess at least I'm confident that its possible.

One more for the road

I'm sitting here waiting to go get pictures and I can't seem to stop.  I'm done though.  Really.   I'm not going to make anything else.  Probably.

As I was putting together props for the pictures; an embroidery frame, my copy of the Hastings Book of Hours (get it!  Yeah, I'm not really funny.  I just think I am.) and the pile of stuff, I decided to do one more quick thing.  A nosegay.

I included a variety of herbs in it. It has three leafed clover and strawberry leaf and flower. In Christian art they're both fertility symbols and by extension symbols of marital love. It also has flowering oregano. In ancient Greece bridal couples were crowned with wreaths of oregano. There's also a bit of raspberry leaf in there. Its another herb believed to bring good luck in marriage according to a variety of folk traditions. You might be seeing a theme here. I wanted to put a little thank you out there to my long suffering husband who has supported me through this. Especially the total unexplained crazy of the last week as I've gotten really anxious and nutty. I love you sweetheart.

Baragoni

I REALLY need to make a duct tape double or something so I have a display for showing off.  Throwing it on the chair just doesn't do much for things.  The giant puffed sleeves actually look rather nice when worn.  Between the velvet and the stuffing I can totally see their practical use as pillows for small children being carried and wanting to rest their heads on mama's shoulder.

I need to get the real laces in and fix the spot at the waist where the skirt unpleated for about 2 inches.  I also have a little bit of the hem to finish up (I was up late  with insomnia doing most of it.)  Probably not much happening today, however, as it is my son Demetri's 4th birthday so I'll be focusing on being a mom for most of the day.

Pictures are planned for Thursday.  Which should also be fun since my husband is going out of town for the weekend and his plane leaves early in the evening.  Juggling the kids and trying to wear the dress is going to be exciting.  Too bad I didn't get their clothes done.  I'm sure I'd have ended up with some approximation of the portrait with kids tugging on clothes and playing with jewelry and generally being in the shot.

Accordellata-- my fancy schmancy bodice ties

I have absolutely no idea why what my bodice laces looked like mattered to me when a shoelace would have been fine, especially since my eyelets are far from perfect, but I guess it did.  For the same reason what my petticoat is laced closed with mattered, I suppose.  Reasons.  That's all I can say.  So, I braided myself some fun bodice laces out of silk.  This is red orange and gold Madeira silk floss.  8 strands of 5.5 meters of silk worked up to almost exactly two yards of finished braid.  This is the half round braid from Jacqui Carey's Beginners Guide to Braiding.  It took me about 5 hours in front of the TV to finish it.  I suppose, at the very least, my bodice laces aren't going to get mixed up with someone else's.  The chances of them breaking isn't very high either.  They're pretty darn strong.  

And now I'm going to sleep.

More tassels

I'm really glad my time dancing American Tribal Style bellydancing gave me loads of practice tying tassels.  You never know when skills will come in handy.  So, 5 more fluffy red tassels to go along with the ones on the tips of my toes (chopines) and the edges of my veil.

The lucet cords I made back a month or so ago finally got used too.  This isn't the original bag I had planned after making them, but I think I'll be happier with the mix of wool and leather than I would have been with the embroidered silk bag I had planned at that time.  I used the last of the green leather scrap from my shoes as the edging and 2 other random leather scraps had enough in them to make the bag and gusset.  I stitched cross-cross for some interest.  It seems rather jaunty and flippy.  Nothing makes me want to dance more than tassels and having them swinging near the hem of the dress should be fun.

Undersleeves are done

I just finished the last lacing ring to tie the undersleeves on.  They're lined in the rosy gold silk and fit beautifully.  I'm feeling a little silly for slashing them and then doing false puffs, but I honestly couldn't imagine myself having time to pull all the slashes through every time I wore the dress, and the white is such a huge part of the look of these.  Kids are helpful that way.  You're lucky if you get completely dressed, let alone get all the details right.  I used scrap of the partlet for the puffs since it was already gathered.  I just tacked the fabric to the inside of the slash and pulled through so that I got a natural look more in keeping with how it would look to have the camisia pulled through.  I figure if I ever chose to I can undo the tacks and take out the false puffs and slash the lining and do them correctly.

On to the baragoni (short puffy oversleeve.)  I've just got to finish bombasting them and attach them to the bottom tabbed bands.  Just as soon as I go buy more thread since I have run out of anything remotely resembling red or gold thread.

I've been wandering around in circles trying to figure out buttons and trim for the zimmara that doesn't involve me doing a bunch of threadworked buttons really quickly.  I think I came up with a good idea about midnight last night.  We'll see if it can take the light of day.

Hoping for sleeves and a coat by dinner time.  Wish me luck.

Strawberry slippers

I didn't quite imagine how green edging on a red pigskin slipper with pinks that showed the gold brocade lining would turn out.  According to my 7 year old I have "strawberry toes."  Mostly I was just trying to put a little more oomph into the slippers and I'd found a remnant at the leather store earlier today and though it would match the green I just lined my zimarra with.  Strawberry toes are fun though, right?  Especially with chopines and bright green stockings?  I added a square of the same lace that's in my handkerchief since I wanted something more decorative than just the pinking but wasn't up for cutting the leather that finely.  With the time constraints, these are sewn on my sewing machine with a leather needle, but I hope to tweak the pattern a bit more and make another nicer pair by hand later.  I certainly have enough oodles of the leather hide left.

Back to finishing other stuff.  I took a break for most of the day and played, having my hair cut and going out to lunch, so I'll have to hustle to get back on schedule and get you those pictures I promised of sleeves.  they're SO close to being done.

Tomorrow I'll get pictures

I'm in the middle of about 5 projects, but they're getting close to being done.  I just have the lining to finish stitching into the undersleeves and the lacing rings and they're complete.  The baragoni are pretty close too.  Just have to finish the bombasting and line them and do the lacing rings for those.  I decided to make a quick moretta mask since I kept seeing them in reference pictures for other things I was making.  I couldn't find any Italian extant pieces, but there is the Daventry mask, which was found just in June of last year in England and a doll sized one at the V&A.  Mine is done with a buckram base shaped on my styrofoam head form and then covered in black velvet and lined in silk.  There's a bead attached to the mouth slit for biting on to and holding it on.  I adapted this tutorial.

Since I had the picture up for the Dutch cloak, I made a final decision on whether to attempt it or not and decided I'd rather keep the velvet I had planned for it for my next project.  Instead, I pulled a brown and red brocade from my stash and decided to make a zimarra (lose gown) instead.  It's actually the back side of the fabric, since the front has more red than brown and the brown works better against all the red of the dress.  It's lined in a lightweight green cotton.  I did basic rectangular construction, and I plan on just doing shoulder wings for now.  The fullness of the sleeves of the dress seem like a bit much to have another sleeve over.  I may add a hanging sleeve in the future.  It's sewn together, just needs trim and the wings.  If I get enough time I'll do threadworked buttons and military style bar braids for fastening.

Here's another one of those examples of moretta masks/vizards that I kept finding.  This one is actually the reference for my drawstring bag with tassels.  Just finishing the decoration on the bag.

No, I can't really ever seem to focus on one thing, and I know I'm supposed to be finishing this rather than starting new projects, but I'm enjoying it.  I've never finished anything other than at the last minute, so it just wouldn't be right unless I was scrambling to finish the last little bits. 

Pink underwear with hearts

I never got around to the pink linen embroidered drawers that I was so very excited about at the start of this.  I decided against the silk Venetians with diagonal floral trim that had been my backup plan because I want to use the orangey/red silk for my Artemisian Costuming Challenge where it can actually be seen.  I still wanted drawers for comfort reasons though.  I considered just plain white ones but decided there was no fun in that, so I needed something a little jazzier.  I decided to go ahead and use the pink linen I'd originally planned to embroider on because my green stockings were decided on to go with the shocking pink and, even after using some to line a Persian style coat for Baron's War and make these, I have loads of it left.  It was bought on clearance last year for $1.97 a yard.  Pink isn't one of my favorite colors but the price was right and it has turned out to be a great purchase.

Since I was using bright pink I decided to add some hearts as sort of a joke.  I had just enough of this palmette designed wide lace to do an insert up each leg at the seam.  I put them in "upside down" so they're more like the krin motif I babbled about ages ago. The lace trim at the hem is the same lace on my chemise hem and cuffs, around the edge of my handkerchief, and on my partlet.  I got several lengths of it in some grab bags at the lace store.  I've only got about 6 inches left and they don't carry it any more which makes me sad.  I'm almost out of lace and trims of all types to be honest.  Thank goodness this is almost over since my stash is pretty depleted.

Fluffy, frilly gathers of doom

The puffy white monstrosity is done.  It took me two days to gather the fabric and only about an hour to actually sew and assemble the thing.  It looks sort of wrong in the picture, but the shape should be just right with the support the dress gives.  I looked and looked at the portrait for some sort of fastening, like the ties on other partlets. but didn't see one.  It didn't seem to have an underarm seam either.  That just doesn't work with the pointed look of this particular shape.  All I can figure is that it is pinned into place.  It sits fine now, but could easily be twisted if it isn't anchored in some way.  I might starch the collar just a little to give me more the look that is in the portrait. 

A few more beads and we have a balzo

Putting the last few beads on the balzo, but I had someone available to take a picture so here it is.  Super comfortable with the wool base, and it fits perfectly when I have my hair braided around my head (which it is not in the quicky picture, but is how I plan to wear it normally.)  Even with no pins or anything it stays in place nicely.

I cut the mock-up for the partlet this morning and am playing with just how much fullness I want to the gathering.  This is one of those occasions when I wish I had more decorative stitches to my no frills sewing machine.  There just isn't time in my schedule to do hand work on the partlet, so I need to stitch the gathers in place.  Not sure how happy its going to make me to do it this way,   Only 40 days to go in the challenge and I want to leave at least 10 for getting good pictures since I'm going to need a lot of help with that.  I'm rather proud of most of my projects, but they just don't look all that great in photos.  I'm an unusual size and not photogenic so I need all the help I can get.

Still have some final tweaking with the skirt, but the dress is getting closer to being finished.  Hoping to cut the sleeves tomorrow, but I still haven't finalized if I'm going to do a two piece sleeve and do the upper puff separately.  My friend Davey brought over a soldering gun so we're going to make the girdle a little stronger today.  I STILL need to figure out the earrings.  The Venetians should just take about a day.  Chopines still need a lot of sanding and then a couple of days of work to cover them and add some bling.  The leather slippers are up in the air as to I will even get to start them.  Time has totally gotten away from me. 

Girdle is basically finished

I just need a hook so its easier to take on and off and its done.  To make it completely complete, it would be nice to find a pomander or a tassel or something for the end, but I can wait until I run across the perfect thing.  So I guess its mostly done.  

Actually, there's one more step I would like to do, but I'm not sure I'm up to it..  I am a little worried the jump rings will gap because the girdle is pretty heavy and I'm considering soldering them closed.  I have a multi-tool that I use for pyrography that can be used as a soldering iron but I've never tried it.  I'm a little nervous about it.  But, I really don't want to have to constantly reassemble the girdle when something decides to fall apart.  I'd much rather have it super sturdy so I don't have to worry.  Guess I'm going to let that brew a little bit.  I've been working on this pretty solidly for a couple of days since there was a lot to assemble and I'm ready to put it aside and declare  another wearable item,  Technically done is something. right?

Fussing with the girdle

I've been plying around with the various bits and pieces I got for the girdle, trying to make them look like they belong together.  The portrait piece is made of really large components and its pretty much entirely gold.  I haven't been able to find pieces of the right scale, nor enough of them.  Maybe it would be easier if it was closer to Christmas and I could go ornament shopping.  So, I decided to do as I'd done with the necklace and abandon the idea of doing something that looked like the portrait and go for something that wouldn't look out of place.  I started by putting a pearl in the center of the filigree buttons and adding some of the red glass jewels I used in the necklace to the large oval bits with metal and jewelry glue..  It unified things a bit, but the shapes didn't transition well, Luckily, I found a really interesting bracelet with a great shaped plaque.  The original pieces looked like the one on the far left, with the 4 half round  cream dots.  I pried those off, as well as the crystal in the center.  Then I put a button pearl in the center and red beads in the place of the cream.  The smaller size of the red beads shows more of the gold base piece which I like a lot.  There were three of the bracelet, so I ended up with 15 plaques  Between the red cabachons and some pearls as well as some smaller gold bits, I think I'm going to end up with enough length.  Its actually a pretty long girdle, since there is an extension for the zibellino.  The glue should cure tonight and I can try assembling everything tomorrow and see how close it comes.

Back to the chopines and a weekend with my lucet

Went down for a wedding this weekend (and had no internet access to speak of.)  I dropped in to my parents' house and my dad helped me with ideas on how to shape the chopines.  His first suggestion was a rasp-- which I had been using.  The second idea was a drum sander, which he didn't have, or a belt sander.  I already bought one of those and have been working with it, but it is slow going.  What we finally tried doing was using his table saw.  Huh?  Yeah, that was my reaction.

What he did was raise and lower the blade to different heights and take out channels of wood close to each other.  then we took a chisel and popped out the wood between the channels.  I seems to have worked pretty well for taking out large bits of material, and I'm much closer to the shape I want.  He did start the cuts too high on one while we tried to figure things out, so I'll be administering some putty, and the laminated wood cracked in one spot, so he sent me home with a large clamp and some wood glue to sort of inject into the crack and make sure it doesn't get work.  On the whole though, more progress was made in 2 hours than I've made in days of work to this point, so I'm really pleased.

I didn't get any other projects brought with me this weekend, but had the leftover gold crochet cotton from my stocking lace and veil edging in my bag, as well as some red weaving yarn.  I had a lucet in my purse (don't ask, I really couldn't tell you why.)  In my sitting around minutes I made about 7 yards of cord.  I think I'm going to use it for long drawstring ties and make one of the round tasseled bags that can be seen in some engravings dangling down close to the hem.  I'll babble about it more once I figure out the design and decide for sure if  I'm even going to make one for certain. 

So there we go, not much done this weekend, but the project does keep moving along.

Crowdsourcing is cool

Its truly amazing what can happen when you put questions out there.  The picture up top is "Pegasus and the Muses" by Girolamo Romanino, painted in the 1540's.  Do you see all the lovely pointy partlets and puffy paned sleeves?  From the front and back?  Whoo-hoo!  I have huge thank yous to dole out for finding this for me.

Ashley was kind enough to point out the pictures of an extant dress with a skirt pleated to the outside of the bodice that Anea has on her site.  I sent Anea an email thanking her for having the pictures up, and she was kind enough to help me even more and tell me about the regional style in Brescia for this type of pointed partlet.  She linked me to several other paintings in her files with the same type of dress and partlet.  I am very, very grateful for her time and expertise.  Since Italian is not my area of research, I haven't put the time and effort into really investigating sources and knowing what is out there.  I am so floored by the generosity of people who have been willing to help me as I bumble along with this project.

Speaking of crowdsourcing, my embroidery hero, Kim Salazar (author of The New Carolingian Modelbook and superdooper generous designer and researcher of blackwork patterns) is attempting an interesting project.  She is using the frame from a recent design and attempting to have a design constructed by the group.  If you're interested in helping out, you design a bit of blackwork to fit into the frame and send it off for inclusion.  Check it out.  She's also got a new FREE book of over 200 blackwork fillings available for download, not to mention some silly designs (who could resist the Flying Spaghetti Monster, skulls, and octopodes in blackwork?) available in her recent posts.  Her research, stitching, and design skills are amazing and I so want to be her when I grow up (assuming that ever happens.)

In parting, there's one more cool thing about crowdsourcing.  It let me have a rather interesting conversation with my computer geek husband who's job has involved writing software that works with and supports crowdsourcing for language translation.  Not to mention the fact that he got to use the word portmanteau in a sentence.