Secret projects

original art by Christie Ward

I've been being hopeless about daily posts. So this very uninformative post is just here to start building some momentum-- at least I hope it is. I have been doing lots of sewing, but it is lots of sewing that I can't post pictures of for awhile. I always hate that. Love making the things-- hate having to try to hush up about them.

It was a group project. My friends and I tend to go by the moniker "The Ladies of Doom" these days. It started as a joke name added to a Facebook chat and has stuck to the point that I'm in the process of registering a heraldic badge for our use. If it passes, it will be this harpy colored vair (a heraldic fur that is alternately blue and white/silver.)

Anyway, the dress I've been working on for the last couple of weeks was finished last night, so I can start on projects that I can hopefully post about.

Modelbuchs and where to find them

I'm supposed to be doing 25 other things that include quilting, couching, felling seams, writing a research paper, cleaning my sewing room, making jewelry, felting a rug, and making my kids and I all have a reasonable summer with no one going stir crazy. Instead, I'm looking at modelbuchs. Again. I found a couple of new to me ones so I thought I'd put together a list of where to find them so it was handy. (I have not included all the links if there were multiple places and editions to be found unless an edition was significantly different.)

I need to add a few more that I know location on, but I had so many tabs open, I decided to publish this before I lost track of too many things. I need to finish adding Lotz numbers as well (Lotz is the standard bibliography and with all the confusion it helps at least a little to keep things straight.)


First up, the easiest to get to: free online pdf's and ebooks

Ein Neu Modelbuch Johann Schonsberger 1524 Link is to my Pinterest board with links to individual pages

(4) Ce est ung tractat de la noble art de leguille ascavoir ouvraiges de spaigne Willem Vorsterman 1527. This is a copy of Peter Quental's Eyn New Kunstlich Boich. Link is to the Met's copy. I also have the individual pages pinned on their own board on Pinterest.

Ein new getruckt Model Büchli Johann Schonsberger 1529

(13) Modelbuch aller art Nehewercks un Strickens. Christian Engenulf 1527

(116) Corona delle Nobili e Virtuous Donne Cesere Vecellio 1592 The Smithsonian's copy of a German version is cleaner and located here

(32) Schon Neues Modelbuch Johann Siebmacher published 1597. Hathitrust has it and it is available for free pdf download of either individual pages or the whole book. This one can also be found at flowersoftheneedle.com recharted as "Needlework Patterns from Renaissance Germany" and available as a free pdf

(33) Neues Modelbuch Johann Siebmacher published 1603.  Again at the Hathitrust for free and Archive.org. Dover published this as "Baroque Charted Designs for Needlework."

Ein Ney Formbuchlein 1534 Johan Swartzenberger  (This one is available in reprint from Lacis as Patterns Book of Embroidery:1534) Link is to my board of links to individual pages in the Kunstbibliothek copy.

Opera Nova Universali  Giovanni Vavassore published 1530 First link is to a version at Gallica. The second is a cleaned up copy at Flowers of the Needle This one is rather random. It is early enough that it is embroidery. There is a beautiful calligraphy alphabet at the end as well as some drawings of a variety of animals.

This is another one listed as Vavassore's Opera noua uniuersal inttlata cotona di racammi, but it looks nothing like the other.  I need to investigate further, but meanwhile, here's the link to a gorgeous book 

Vorglagen fur Nadelarbeiten Giovan Battista Ciotti  1591

(85) L'Honesto Essemplario Mattio Pagan 1550 This one is the Archive link to a scan of the one in the Clark Institute library. Counted work, some fabulous shaped necklines and a variety of mermaids and sirens and acorns.

This link is a different edition of Pagan. The Hathi trust has pages scanned from the New York Public Library's copy of Ferdinando Ongina's late 19th century facsimile reprint. Has some different patterns than the Clark version. You can read it entirely online, download individual pages in PDF or download the entire PDF if you have a login.

(80) Giardinetto Novo di Punti Tagliati 1550 Matthio Pagan Scanned from the 1921 reprint. There's a scan at The University of Arizona's Weaving page.

(88) Patrons pour brodeurs  1554, Iehan Ruelle (Paris)


(96) La Vera Perfezione del Disegno Per Punti e Ricami  Giovanni Ostaus, published 1561 and 1567 Facsimile copy produced 1909. Several webbed versions (one of the easier ones to find) The Ricci facsimile version includes both versions, which are very different versions. Flowers of the Needle has both published separately. This one is sort of a buffet. There are patterns for cutwork (tagliate), couched cords, counted threads, engraved scenes for tapestries, surface embroidery. Really a mixed bag of just about everything between the two books. The Smithsonian's version is here. 

(72) Il Burato Alessandro Paganino facsimile copy produced in 1909. There is a version of this at the Internet Archive as well as the University of Arizona's Weaving page (they downloaded it from Archive)

Formbuchlein Hans Hofer Published 1545. Facsimile copy produced 1913. This is available at the Hathi Trust. You can read it in full online and download pdf of individual pages. A pdf of the full book requires a partner log in. Linn Skinner also produced a book with 25 of the bands reproduced and charted, but the Skinner Sister's site is down since her death in 2012 and I haven't found any place that carries them.

(no Lotz number)  Pattern Book  Rudolph Weissenbach Published 1549 Swirling Moresques and interlace. Includes some of Peter Flotner's designs for daggers and sheaths with grotesques.

Nouveaux pourtraicts de pointe coupé et dantelles en petite, moyenne et grande forme. Nouvellement inventez et mis en lumière Jacques Foillet published1598, Facsimile 1891 retitled Das Musterbuch

(40) Schon Neues Modelbuch Georg Beatus Published 1601.

(139) Ghirlanda di sei uaghi fiori scielti da piu famosi giardini d'Italia   Pietro Tozzi  published 1598
This one is lace patterns as frames for calligraphy. Lace patterns begin on page 24 of 70

(110) I Singolari e Nuovi Desegni  Federico Vinciolo published 1609.  Dover has an inexpensive copy of this in print. It is probably the most available of the modelbuchs. Several different online scans as well. It was the first modelbuch I ever saw and owned. Smithsonian version is here.

(55) Neues Modelbuch Andreas Bretschneider published 1619, facsimile copy produced 1892. The designs are beautiful and obviously 17th century with flowing lines and florals. The designs are also drawn to the shape of garments (nightcaps, cloaks etc.)

(27) New Kunstliches Modelbuch Bernhard Jobin 1589

(59, 60, 61, 62) Neues Modelbuch Dritter Thiel  1666 (1-4) 4 different books scanned from a copy where they are all bound together. 1 (1689) and 2 (1666) 3 (1676) and number 4 (1676) Published by Paulus Furst and designed by his daughter Rosina Helena Furst.  For just number 4: Neues Modelbuch by Rosina Furst. There are other links with other combinations of the 4 configured in different ways at Archive and U of A as well as others. Lacis has the 4 of these available as reprints of the facsimiles printed in the 18th century titled Alle Meine Blumen.

Du Debvoir des Filles by Jean Baptiste de Glen 1597 Lace patterns in an instruction book for young girls on morality and proper behavior. Link is to my Pinterest board with direct links to archived pages from the Beinecke Library's exhibition "My Gracious Silence,"


A Booke of Curious and Strange Inventions William Barley 1596

(143) Teatra di Nobili et Virtuose Donne Elizabetta Catenea Parasole 1604 (Second part of book)

(132) Specchio delle Virtuous Donne  Elizabetta Catanea Parasole 1594 (Click picture and it will open a reader with all of the book)

Le Fleur de la science de pourtraicture Francesco di Pellegrino 1530

Nuw Modelbuch, allerley Gattungen Dantelschnur  1561 by Christopher Froschower in Zurich. This is entirely bobbin lace patterns. The author is known only as "R.M." but is a lacemaker who has taught for 12 years and includes what she knows of the history of lace in the forward. This was republished in 1986 by Claire Burkhard as "Fascinating Bobbin Lace." Burkhard translated it into 3 languages (French, German, and English) and included modern prickings for the laces. It is out of print and basically impossible to find.

(45) Schon Neues Modelbook Sigismund Latomus 1622

Sigismund Latomus earlier edition 1606

(100) Le Pompe

(69) Opera Nova  Domenico de Sera 1546  This is the Hathitrust scanned copy of the 1879 facsimile by Ongania. There is also a version at Flowers of the Needle

Ensamplario Nuovo Giovanni Tagliente 1531, Flowers of the Needle version

New Modelbuch Georg Straub 1593

Gli Universali Del Belli Recami Niccolo Zoppino 1537, Flowers of the Needle

Vasi desegni de Merletti Bartolomeo Danieli The link is to my Pinterest board with direct links to individual pages.

Hippolyte Cocheris published a combination of modelbuchs (and Lacis has a reprint version) in 1872 that is a reprint of
(75) Claude Nourry's 1533 La Fleur des Patrones de Lingerie
 (76) Pierre de Sainte Lucie's 1549 La fleur des patrons de lingerie à deux endroits, à point croisé, à point couché et à point piqué
(77) Troveon, Patrons de Diverses Manieres (after 1533)  
(78) Antoine Belin, Sensuyvent les patrons de messire Antoine Belin 1550

Neues Blumenbuch by Maria Sybilla Marian 1674

part 2 and 3 of Neues Blumenbuch 1677 and 1680  Marian was an incredibly talented engraver and botanical artist. Her father was an engraver and publisher and her step-father a talented still life artist. In order to help support her family she taught embroidery as well and did the first book as a text for her students. She went on to publish a well respected book on the metamorphosis of the butterfly and is considered an early contributor to the science of entomology.

Trevelyon Miscellany Thomas Trevilian, 1608 Facsimile copy produced 2007. This is not actually a modelbook, but a commonplace book with bits of almanacs, alphabets, calendars, proverbs, and anything else the compiler felt like shoving into it. It wasn't published for people at large like the modelbuchs. There are 3 copies in existance (the most recent was located in 2013) Section 4 of 5  is embroidery and lace designs including coifs, nightcaps, borders, spot motifs, etc. The link takes you to Luna at the Folger where you can see and print individual pages.


__________________________________________

Esamplario Di Lavore Giovanni Vavassore published 1532. There was a facsimile published in 1910. I haven't found an online scan yet, but you can sometimes find copies.  The Met does have one page for view online

Both Vavassore, both Ostaus, Vinciolo and Paganino's Il Burato (the books published by Elisa Ricci in the early 20th century) are collected under the title Disegni per merletti e ricami. Libri di modelli del XVI secolo. It is available directly from booksellers in Italy for about $40. While most of these have online scans (except the Esamplario above that I haven't found yet,) having a hard copy collection (and not having to buy more printer ink so I could print from the scans) is rather nice.

A Scholehouse for the Needle Richard Schorleyker published 1632 Facsimile copy produced 1998. The Facsimile is from a much more complete copy than most others and well worth getting, especially since the spot motifs that are my favorite part of this aren't anywhere else (except one page) You can see several pages archived here. The 1998 edition is available at Hedgehog Handworks for just under $70 as well as a large selection of other places specializing in period embroidery supplies.



Not a particular modelbuch, but this digital book is a selection of patterns redrawn from pieces in the Leiperheide collection and published in 1882. Part of it was translated and is available as "Old Italian Patterns for Linen Embroidery" By Kathleen Epstein

Both collections published by Frieda Leiperheide are now available digitally from the Smithsonian here.

I've found I do better with a theme, so I'm going on pilgrimage.

Elephant on pilgrimage. Walters Art Museum

I've got a pile of projects both finished and in the works but I just haven't felt like I have that much to say. So, I'm going to try with the daily blogging again. That way if I have something nifty to say I'll say it. And if what I say isn't very entertaining, well, at least there's always the following day.

I'll do what I can to squeeze things into the pilgrimage theme. The first couple of posts shouldn't be too difficult. I'm starting things out by making a pilgrim's scrip. That is the name for the useful, roomy shoulder bag worn as an identifying symbol by those on pilgrimage. It gave them somewhere to stash their relics, food, and other general stuff. Seems like a really useful addition to my event gear.

I'm doing my own "virtual pilgrimage" as well, walking mileage and tracking it on a map. That'll both let me do some research on my persona and work on my fitness goals.

I'm starting out at the Basilica San Marco. The relics of Saint Mark were brought to Venice from Alexandria in the 9th Century, and his symbol of the winged lion became a symbol of the city. I'll head from there to the Basilica of Saint Antonio since it was one of the most popular local pilgrimages. Assisi, Rome, and Santiago de Compostela were also popular destinations for Venetian pilgrims.

Off to calculate mileage, pick some fabric and do some walking.

Score!

I'm writing an actual blog post-- honest. But first, I'm reveling in sale priced faux fur. My kids (and my husband) love the fur coverlet I made for Realm of Venus' Fabulously Fashionable Fur challenge. They love it so much I really don't get to use it much. I was wincing at the thought of putting out the money for fur to make them all their own, but Hancock's saved me today. They had all of their Spot the Dot clearance fabrics on sale for $3.27 a yard or less starting today. I showed up on their doorstep 3 minutes before they opened and conducted a Viking raid. The pillaging went well. I came home with about 75 yards of fur, wools and a random velvet for $220. My receipt informs me that I saved $1,272.30. . .

Blankets, coats, and such are now on the agenda for camping season with my kids.

Artemisia's Disney Challenge!

Some of the participants at Midwinter Knight's Dream (photo by Jennie Fauss)

Lots and lots and lots of pictures. And none of them mine, so things might actually be visible. :)

I am just so overwhelmed by the creativity and beauty of the outfits made as a response to the Disney Challenge I issued to the Kingdom of Artemisia back last May. Just think of this as gramma with a big book of pictures running you down, intending to brag about every one of them.

Patchwork Sally (photo by Carol Jensen)

First up we have Tabitha de Luna with her Norse inspired by Sally from The Nightmare before Christmas. The tiny details are some of the most fun. Her horn spoon, skeleton beads, and wormswort jar were adorable.  You can read more about the entire design process and see more pictures on her blog.

Finishing details (photo by Carol Jensen))

Tabitha debuted her creation at Toys for Tots in Arrow's Flight and fit right in with our Fairytale theme. I am especially grateful that she wore her outfit for Toys, because I was afraid the Challenge wasn't going to happen. I was so caught up in getting the feast ready, that I hadn't promoted the Disney Challenge in the weeks leading up to Toys. so seeing her outfit was really encouraging.

Their Majesties Raven and Sajah also dressed for the occasion coming as Robin and Maid Marion from Robin Hood.They joked about finding the outfit in their closets. I was so thrilled that they chose to support the challenge.

Ooodle-lally, oodle-lally, golly what a day  (photo by Tabitha Mounteer)

Vigdis of the Keep also made an incredible Norse with astounding details. She wasn't able to attend an event with her ensemble, but her write-up of the process is an inspiration. I adore her take on the Queen of Hearts from Alice in Wonderland. 

The Queen of Hearts (Photo by Vickie Lynn)

There's embroidery and tablet woven trim, hand dyed fabric, hand made beads and a pendant to bring everything together. Again, the attention to detail just floors me. Not to mention the creativity of translating the Queen to an early period.

Norse Wonderland (photo by Vickie Lynn)

Vigdis also made a monetary donation to the challenge and helped pay for some of the tokens given to the participants. They received carved stone hearts because "The Dream is a wish your heart makes."



There were a couple of other people with lovely ensembles who were not able to make either event where the Challenge ensembles were displayed. Hallerna Stjarnkona made a sweet Merida dress for her niece and posted pictures in the Challenge's Facebook group.

For a feisty girl. (Photo by Laura Lind)

Michelle of Harris-upon York made a Tudor gown based on Cruella DeVille's character concept. The acres of fur needed for the giant flip sleeves were just the place for 101 Dalmation puppy spots.

"Get me those PUPPIES!" (photo by Michelle Harris)

 I was most excited to see the small children who got into the act. My oldest daughter got tired of waiting for me to settle in and make her the Tinkerbell outfit I'd promised and got to work on her own outfit to wear to Toys for Tots. She cut some patches from scraps she found in my sewing room and convinced her grandfather to help her sew them into place. "I'm Cinderella before the ball." I was informed rather pointedly that I needed to get right on that bell gown, as it was still expected.

Here's my girl grabbing a broom, about to sweep the floor as part of the fairy tale obstacle course at the event.

Cinder-EL-LA!!! (photo by Tabitha Mounteer)

At Midwinter Knight's Dream, we had several children dressed up. A brother and sister arrived at their very first SCA event dressed as one of the triplets from Brave and Esmeralda from Hunchback of Notre Dame

Jingle, jingle, jingle (photo by Jennie Fauss)

"Tell that to my frying pa--" (photo by Jennie Fauss)

 Esmeralda was kind enough to give us a dance when I asked. Another brother and sister coordinated their outfits, coming as Rapunzel and Flynn from Tangled.  While her mom (Mistress Antonia) had made her outfit, I think Mychal was more excited about the opportunity to carry a frying pan than anything else. She certainly has the hair to be a perfect Rapunzel. Dame Varia Goff, pointed out that despite years in the SCA, making the outfit for Asher's Flynn was her very first try at a doublet. She has this crazy idea that garb should be comfortable. She showed off some of that comfortable garb with her Norse rendition of Han Solo in wool. Technically Disney owns Star Wars these days, so it counts. 

Han shot first! (Photo by Jennie Fauss)

Draaa-GON (photo by Jennie Fauss)

Another thing I was pleasantly surprised by was the number of people who started their introductions with "This was my first garb" or "I don't sew, but. . ." The great thing about the challenge was that it let people add accessories to create their character or just think about how they combined things already in their closet. It was wonderful to see people choosing to participate. We had a Mulan, who didn't sew, but had made a gorgeous mask and added some hairsticks to an outfit she already had in order to make an amazing ensemble.  Dumbo arrived as well, with a great mask, reminiscent of the Norse felt masks of sheep found at Haithabu.

"I can fly." (photo by Jennie Fauss)

The most outstanding "I don't sew" statement, however came from Kathleen of Otterdale. In addition to doing an incredible job as event steward (so she really had no free time at all,) she decided to come as the Sorcerer's Apprentice in her very first try at Burgundian. The pointy hennin and dress was fun, but her necklace was a stop you in your tracks stunner. She carved and cast a collar of buckets and brooms in pewter.

Yen Sid's Apprentice (photo by Jennie Fauss)

"You may think you're so powerful, well this is MY dream."

I think there were more than a few of us who wanted to quietly pickpocket it. Or just snatch it off her neck and run laughing maniacally into the night with our prize.

Or maybe that was just me. . .








One of the newest movies were represented, with an Elsa from Frozen turning up in wintery white.  Nessa Inghean Uilliam did an intricately appliqued and embroidered Norse Merida with horses running around the hem and across the top. The work was lovely and the colors were breathtaking

.
Captain Hook put in an appearance as well. Bearing his trusty hook (made from the bread mixer of a Kitchen Aid,) the captain brought along some crew, with Smee press ganged into an appearance. Hook was very clear to point out to us that he was wearing late period Dutch with some nifty knots around his collar, and not in fact 17th century as so often happens with those fancy privateers.

Queen Grimhilde, the wicked queen in Snow White, was the earliest movie represented. It is hard to beat the very first Disney villain. Morgan du Marc was regal in purple and gold.

Merin McTigert showed us all what stealth is like, keeping us all guessing as to who she was portraying until she revealed all with a smile. Her Cheshire Cat was well executed both in attitude and in artistry.  The butterfly hennin ears were a great thinking out of the box touch.

I guess that just leaves me, the ringleader of the crazy. The Magnificent, Marvelous, Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad. Madam Mim.  We had people introduce themselves with their reasons for choosing their inspiration. I chose mine because it was all about things that I am afraid of. I don't wear pastels, I don't wear white, and I fully believe pink is evil. I'm also terrified of very fitted and tailored garments and how they will make me look like I'm squeezed in to a sausage casing. However, wearing bright springy colors to be a cartoon villain who "finds delight in the gruesome and grim," seemed just up my alley. After all, she's an ugly hag so no matter how much of a mess I made, it'd work for the character. I'm really happy with how it turned out. I love the lilac loose gown and the bubblegum pink petticoat was more fun than I thought. I also may have become addicted to late period waistcoats.

Anyway, there is is; beautiful work by some people who superlatives aren't enough for. Thank you all for making my dream a reality and coming out to play with me.

Pictures of Fia's dress

I still need to finish the write up on the sleeves (and finish beading them) but we did finally get some pictues of Fia's dress.

And now for something completely different-- a Byzantine tangent

Artemisia's current Prince and Princess invited the populous to dress in Byzantine clothing for their upcoming Coronation on March 1st and an excuse for a new outfit always makes me happy.  Luckily I had at least a little bit of a foundation for research because of the Byzantine influence on Rus clothing and design. Unfortunately, that also put me in an entirely different century than most people are liable to be dressing in.

I'm pretty sure most people are going to be going with the early Byzantine look from the 6th century mosaics of Justinian and Theodora.  I love the sumptuousness of the mosaics, but the middle Byzantine look I've fallen in love with (10th-11th century) has something that they don't-- an incredible skyscraping hat. Don't get me wrong, the Empress has amazing hair with pearls and a crown and a whole lot going on. Not to mention the superhumeral of doom. But the noblewoman's hat is closer to the head with a large roll at the base, and superhumerals seem to be limited to Imperial dress until about the 10th century when they begin to be used by other members of the aristocracy (and become the Rus ozherel'e.) Pushing forward lets me put a giant fan on my head kinda sorta like my favorite Russian hats, gives me a great fabric belt, and adds a killer collar. Not to mention the nifty angelwing sleeves.

I'm using this miniature from a Psalter, Vatican Greek Manuscript 752 as my design inspiration. It was copied in 1059. That's an important date because it is really close to 1054 when the Western and Eastern branches of the Christian church decided to excommunicate one another and go play in their own sandboxes. Art always flourishes in times of unrest and you can see the turning from old Roman forms and toward more Eastern influences in the changes of fashion. This miniature is sometimes listed as "dancing girls" but the clothing worn is very specifically noble. The stripes on the hats indicate rank. The large amounts of gold decorative work is another clue that these are not lower class women.  To see what a dancing girl would more likely looked like (short sleeves with no long sleeved tunica underneath, uncovered head, and with much less opulence and gold) have a look at this miniature from an 11th century manuscript of Oppian's poem on hunting Cynegetica. It is from manuscript Z 479 held in the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana in Venice. Timothy Dawson has a reconstruction on his website Levantia.

You can clearly see patterns depicting the expensive silks popular among the nobles and onlt available in small amounts, if at all, in other countries. Byzantium used these silks as a diplomatic tool, letting them out in bits and pieces. If you are at all interested in this, there's a good discussion in Angeliki Laiou's book The Economic History of Byzantium: From the seventh through the fifteenth century.  Did I mention I did waaaaay too much research on Byzantine silk as I was examining Russian textiles and embroidery motifs. Yeah. Um. Anyway, although I would have really liked to have purchased something like Sartor's silk damask reproduction of the medallion patterns typical for Byzantine silks, the price tag just wasn't something I could manage right now. But drooling is fun. I love this Amazon pattern in the Met.

Amazon silk roundel from the Met

I'm actually sort of thinking about printing something very like the Amazons on the mantle I will be making for this outfit. We'll see, I guess. In the meantime, I went hunting for the costumer's solution for fabric when you want inexpensive silk with beading and embroidery: antique saris. I spent a couple of days searching through what was available on Ebay and trying to figure out what color I wanted. I love turquoise and magenta and was hoping for something with peacocks similar to what I made one of my Russian outfits from, but nothing turned up that I loved. I couldn't find anything blue that spoke to me. But then I found the most amazing green that shouted "Look at me, look at me! I'm Byzantine."

Silk-- check.  Roundels-- check. Gold-- check. The roundels are floral rather than animals or figurative. but other than that I think it's pretty darn perfect, And it has some gold beads on it already. It needs more. And pearls. And possibly more pearls.

I found another sari to cut trim from and I've got white linen for the tunica underneath. I need to get felt to make the hat, figure out the mantle, and generally get the guts to cut into my sari, but I'm feeling pretty good about the project so far.